Guide to white wine of Graves, Bordeaux France

rendement annuel, the actual permitted yield which is set on a yearly basis, followed by the plafond limité de classement (an increase of the maximum yield granted by the INAO on top of the annual figure), and it should be clear that true maximum yields can be much higher than 48 hl/ha. This is not specific to Graves or even to Bordeaux, and is something I have also covered in my Loire wine guide.
To the south of Pessac-Léognan are the vineyards that have remained designated as Graves following their parting of ways in 1987, spread over 43 communes entitled to the appellation. Here regulations are similar, the grape varieties are obviously broadly the same, although some of the INAO numbers are different, such as the rendement de base which is higher at 50 hl/ha, but otherwise the style is essentially the same as that of Pessac-Léognan. With that in mind there can be good value here, away from the more exalted names to the north, and it is one of many regions in Bordeaux that are crying out to be better exploited. As a final point in this rundown of the relevant appellations, I should make note of one oddity that comes along with Graves. This is the appellation of Graves Supérieures, a little-seen halfway-house between the dry whites of Graves and the sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac, appellations which are of course completely surrounded by the Graves vineyards. It allows only for white wines, and the INAO regulations, which stipulate a rendement de base of 40 hl/ha, a must weight of 195 g/l, and minimum values of 12% alcohol and 18 g/l residual sugar in the final wine clearly favour the production of sweeter styles. It is not a wine, however, I am very familiar with.
Graves – The 1953 and 1959 Classifications
Like a number of regions of Bordeaux, Graves has been classified, and here this process dates back to 1953, when the first classification was drawn up. Although most sources indicate the classification was only officially ratified in 1959, this appears to be incorrect – the original 1953 classification had already been ratified by that time, and the 1959 ranking was a new classification with revision, admitting several new estates to the ranking (bringing the total number to sixteen) and this producing the Graves classification which is still referred to today.

The full classification together with more details of its history is worthy of some attention and can be viewed here, but naturally not all estates live up to the promise they must have shown five and more decades ago, and thus I have not included every estate in my list of ‘notable chateaux’ to the right. Without doubt the leading estates of the region are around Haut-Brion, namely La Mission Haut-Brion and Laville Haut-Brion (La Tour Haut-Brion also, although from the 2006 vintage onwards this wine is blended into La Mission, and in effect the estate no longer has an independent existence) and of course Haut-Brion itself. These should not be confused with Larrivet-Haut-Brion and Les Carmes Haut-Brion, which although noteworthy do not challenge what are essentially first growth properties.

My list presented here documents those estates in Pessac-Léognan which seem to me to be performing well or at least producing some interesting wines, but it is in no way intended as a reclassification of the region, and thus I have presented the wines in alphabetical order. The list also takes no account of which estates are producing only good red or only good white, which is true of one or two properties. For a complete listing of the chateaux of Pessac-Léognan, and whether the properties are classified for their red wine, their white, or both, see my Graves classification.

Source: http://www.thewinedoctor.com/regionalguides/bordeaux3graves.shtml

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