Sauvignon Blanc: The Chronicle recommends

Jon Bonné
Sunday, October 16, 2011
This typically humble grape has always had the potential for greatness. There’s evidence in Bordeaux, Sancerre, Italy’s Friuli – and increasingly in New Zealand.
And of course, there has been serious California work, mostly under the guise of Fumé Blanc. Although California has often been dinged for abusing this grape in cheap, underwhelming wines, there is a new, small band of true believers.
Perhaps because it needed an image rehab, Sauvignon Blanc has become a magnet for a host of avant-garde winemaking techniques, including a typical mix of fermentation in steel and mostly old barrels, to say nothing of concrete vessels and beyond (see sfg.ly/rpJL81). While these are more expensive than the average bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, they are operating in far more serious territory than most.
Here are six snapshots of the state-of-the-art, Sauvignon Blanc edition.
2009 The Ojai Vineyard McGinley Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($28, 14% alcohol): Pinot maestro Adam Tolmach’s lesser-known talent lies with his very serious Sauvignon Blanc, sourced for the 12th year from this parcel of shale and serpentine subsoils, now farmed organically. Tolmach believes in neutral oak barrels (but no lees stirring) to provide that rich, deep texture, which is offset by a soaring acidity. Aromas of Anaheim pepper and bay leaf, with intense lemon-peel flavors and mineral distinction. A serious effort that could stand up with the best of the Loire or Friuli.
2010 Brander Au Naturel Santa Ynez Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($32, 13.9%): Brander’s ode to the greatness of this grape is again in radiant form, with an opulent mouthfeel from a different method: about a day of soaking must on the grape skins. Lavish and fig-scented, with a subtle grassy snap and lots of ripe tangerine. A unique, layered style that relies on the complexity of great fruit.
2010 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Fumé Blanc ($30, 14.3%): Grgich taps estate parcels in American Canyon and Carneros for this racy but deep-flavored effort. The 2010 is particularly dramatic, full of verbena, kaffir lime, apricot and melon flavors, with an intense freshness but subtle weight. They’ve embraced a style that transcends the old-time moniker — as even they seem to know, adding “Dry Sauvignon Blanc” on the label.
2009 Gamble Family Vineyards Gamble Vineyard Yountville Sauvignon Blanc ($28, 13.8%): Here’s a snapshot of the quintessential Napa approach right now. Fruit from Tom Gamble’s organically farmed 12-acre parcel is fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in a mix of 70 percent barrels (mostly old) and 30 percent steel tanks. It’s focused and tangy for that style, with aromas of stone, lemon peel and waxy pear.
2010 Benziger Signaterra Shone Farm Vineyard Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($24, 14.1%): Benziger’s Shone Farm bottle, overseen by winemaker Rodrigo Soto, has been so consistently good that it is now a benchmark for Russian River Sauvignon Blanc. The cooler year retained intense acidity that bolsters a rush of wet grass and jalapeno aromas, with deep apricot, saline and citrus peel flavors that race across the palate. Made half in steel and half in neutral oak, there’s textural depth here that frames the vintage at its best.
2010 Bernardus Griva Vineyard Arroyo Seco Sauvignon Blanc ($20, 13.5%): This Carmel Valley label taps a site to the south, in Arroyo Seco, planted to a mix of the musqué clone and some Semillon, which makes up 5 percent of this bottle. It captures the best of the grape’s green side: Padron pepper, bay laurel and verbena, and vivacious lime-peel and apple flavors. Lean and zesty, with just a touch of richness in the texture.
Jon Bonné is The Chronicle’s wine editor. Find him at jbonne@sfchronicle.com or @jbonne on Twitter.

Source: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/10/14/FDAQ1LH124.DTL&type=wine

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Bldg 6460 Clark Observatory Building
Manuel A. Roxas Highway corner A Bonifacio Ave,
Angeles Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga 2023
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Manila Sales Office
3003C East Tower, Phil Stock Exchange Center,
Exchange Rd Ortigas Metro Manila, Philippines 1605
(632) 637-5019 0917-520-4393 ask for Rea or Chay
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